A pergola over timber decking, looking across the back yard, is one of the arrangements you find on Garfield properties. On a block with a shed, a tank and paddock behind it, that structure marks the edge of the part you actually live in.
Built together it runs off one set of levels: deck height at the back door, post positions, the fall of the roof above. Posts are what to get right early. A pergola post carries a roof load, not a deck load, so it takes its own footing under the frame, with boards cut around it. Fix them to a finished deck and the boards come up again.
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Yes, unless the boards go straight onto a slab, which is the concreting side of it and the work we do as a concreter in Garfield. The frame is footings, posts, bearers spanning between them, and joists across the bearers at the spacing the board maker sets. The boards carry very little. The frame carries you, and stretched joist spacing shows up as bounce.
There is no single winner, but there is a way to compare like for like. Board density, and whether the board is solid or hollow, is what you feel underfoot. Check whether it is capped and how far the cap wraps. Ask for a tested slip rating rather than a claim, and read what the warranty covers for fade and staining. Then compare the fixing systems.
Choose it for the job rather than the label. A deck in full sun needs UV blockers; one that stays shaded needs a coating that resists mould. Foot traffic sets how often you are back out there, and oils re-coat straight over the top while film-forming sealers last longer and eventually need sanding. Oily hardwoods like Merbau want weathering before a first coat holds.